Written by Alexander G
My First Day in Essaouira
I found myself right outside the Medina, feeling hesitant to enter and unsure what to expect. Marrakech was always perceived as chaotic and stressful. Distant prayer calls dampened my thoughts as well as the racket of me dragging my suitcase over the bumpy cobbled streets. I peered into lively stalls, dodged locals heaving carts, and tried to take in my surroundings. The friendliness of the locals stunned me; their charming smiles greeted my struggles. Instead of heckling or pressuring, people offered simple politeness. Because of this, I felt at ease, even while dragging my loud luggage through the streets.
I arrived at the riad after navigating the slightly confusing maze of streets. A worn, castle-like doorway stood before me. As I was let in, I was greeted with hospitality fit for a castle-dwelling king – much needed after a long journey. I was unsure what to do, distracted by the novelty of my first experience. We were offered mint tea brewed in a metal teapot, which we enjoyed in the courtyard, sitting and revelling in the timid sound of wind rushing through alleyways while admiring the blue-fenced balconies stretching up toward the open-top ceiling.
I was then shown to my room on the top floor near the balcony. The room featured sunset oranges, yellows, and deep reds. I ran up to the balcony, feeling the sun on my skin, and sat down to take in the view. Hundreds of rooftops decorated the streets below, overlooking the choppy seas crashing against the castle walls. It wasn’t a “perfect” view – far from it – but it was real and raw. The buildings showed signs of decay, and the town had a lived-in appearance.
In the evening, I was keen to try the local cuisine. There are many local restaurants offering traditional dishes, but my favourite was the tagine – a stew-like meal cooked in a ceramic dish. The food was rich with herbs and flavourful without being overpoweringly spicy. It was also easy on my wallet, which I appreciated, and the portions were generous – almost too generous to finish.
After enjoying my feast, we took a wander through the streets, heading toward the coast to catch the final moments of the amber sunset. This gave me time to appreciate the music being performed near the docks, resonating through the evening air.
I began exploring the nearby stalls and was drawn to a tucked-away maker of hanging lanterns. The lamps featured swirling patterns of gold and silver, mixed with coloured stained glass and small candle holders inside. They climbed down the walls and hung from the ceiling at every angle, filling the space with warm light. The man selling them told me to name my price. I found this surprisingly refreshing – it meant you could pay based on what felt right, rather than being pushed into a fixed amount.
My Highlight of Essaouira
My highlight of the trip was visiting the main market in the area, which required a tour guide. We took a taxi to the market town, driving through the valleys of mountains along the way. The town’s buildings felt almost derelict, as if it were a former village that had been transformed. Thin sticks propped up ragged pieces of fabric, which served as shelter. Despite its appearance, when I entered the market, it transformed into a settlement of trade and friendship
I walked along the tight, mud-covered paths, and the people were thoughtful, allowing me to view their stalls and graciously letting me watch them as they worked. As far as I could tell, there were no other tourist groups – our guide appeared to be one of the only ones working that day. Everyone in the market seemed familiar with him, greeting him warmly and sending smiles in our direction.
The tour guide asked us to help him buy food for the dinner he had planned for us later. This included picking out nuts and herbs and hunting for the sweetest melon. At first, this was daunting as we had to use our subpar negotiating skills. We thought it best to just let the guide do the talking… Despite this, the shopkeepers were gracious, helping us along and responding to our guide’s enthusiasm. The market was divided into seemingly endless sections; it had everything anyone could need. The guide explained that the animal market was the most important event of the day, guiding us through small passageways that opened out into wide plateaus filled with hundreds of cattle.
He invited us to have tea with him on top of a nearby rooftop. Below, the village sprawled out, with ashy smoke rising from nearby stalls as food was being prepared. As the tea arrived, the guide smiled as he dropped five ginormous sugar cubes into the teapot, almost eager to see our reaction. As they dissolved, he joked, “No sugar?” We let out a chuckle and pretended to pay no mind – except I did not drink much.
The breeze was calmer here, giving way to the sun’s rays. This was reflected in the locals’ clothing – fewer long linen gowns and trousers, replaced by shorts and T-shirts. I foolishly hadn’t got the memo, adorning long linen trousers which I was roasting in.
After finishing our tea, we headed toward the beach to enjoy our food. We drove over the cliffs overlooking the rough seas as mist drew in around the waves, constraining our view. Arriving at a secluded settlement. Before eating dinner, I sat on the crisp sand as the sea fret hit my face. My thoughts became more focused. I realised how fortunate I was to witness such a quiet, ordinary moment in someone else’s life. These unexplored moments are the ones I reminisce on the most – feeling the most unique.
Photos taken by Seb Franklin Frye:
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